RETIC BREEDING SECTION

ADULTHOOD
By this stage I would be feed maybe once every two weeks but on LARGE meals (depending once again on the snake) either large Guinea pigs probably four to six or large rabbits two to four maybe even lambs or goats.
And please remember do not over feed these snakes, they are fast growing as they are, plus like before I said what you put down your snakes throat has to come out one way or another, and believe me when I say this a snake regurge is one of the worst smells I have ever smelt!!!!

PAIRING
Pairing and breeding Reticulated python can be Dangerous these snakes are not like Burmese pythons when breeding burms I would use two males to one female, you can NOT do this with retic’s NEVER put two male retic’s in together as they will battle each other with devastating bites and slashing’s to each other, I have a friend who bred this species years ago before there was any info on them and one of his males ended up with 180 stitch’s! Plus he almost ended up with a few him self when he had to separate them. Always make sure you have your retic’s sexed (IE probed) before pairing!!!
Males reach sexually maturity between three to four years and should be about ten feet minimum and slender, remember as long as the male is sexually mature its best to have a small slender male as these tend to be more sexually active than a stockier snake, some males could be ready sooner than others, like people some get there sooner than others!
Females tend to reach sexual maturity at four years and be a minimum of thirteen feet and a good weight, with female snakes hefty almost over weight is good, remember once the female has become gravid she will not eat until she lays the egg, and to gain a good healthy clutch of eggs you will need the female to be healthy and to have a good fat reserve is critical. The bigger the length of a female the better she will be for breading.

BREEDING
Cooling these snakes can be dangerous if not done correctly, I would suggest dropping the temp 1 degree every week till you get both down to around 70s possibly even to 65F but no lower. The peak mating seasons for Retic’s are from September through November. Oviposition has been reported from December through to May.
Gestation periods can vary, it has been known from a single mating a gestation period of 65 to 105 days has happened. To my knowledge this variation is not temperature related. A good indication to tell if you’re a male is ready for breading is to check for sperm plugs.

COPULATION



If the male and the female are ready, and the environment and the temperature is suitable, the copulation will be happened. The male retic will insert its hemi-penis into female retic’s genital.

GRAVID FEMALES
Taking the eggs from the females and artificially incubating the eggs is the only way to go. I don't know anyone that leaves the eggs with the female. Taking the eggs from the female allows you to:
1. Directly control the environment that the eggs are in.
2. Get the female back on food in a matter of weeks.
3. make sure every egg has a chance of hatching. (The female can sometimes defecate on the eggs and it will cause them to turn bad)



You can make your own incubator, it’s not hard, but you have to build it around the massive clutch size of a retic. Your standard foam "hovabator" type incubator is completely useless in this situation. Many people find old refrigerator /Freezer/ drink coolers, and convert them into an incubator.
Hypothetically, you find an upright freezer, take out the shelves and clean it out very well, get you an 8-10ft piece of the 11" wide heat mat and stick it to the inner wall of the freezer, all the way around the sides and bottom. You’ll need 2-4 little computer fans, for air circulation. The idea is to have all the shelves in the incubator reading the same temperature. One fan facing down, one facing left, one facing up, one facing right, and you should be set there. Wire up the heat mat, drill a small hole in the freezer, thread an electric wire (extension cord with plug cut off) through the hole, wire it up, and make it safe so you don't shock yourself. Four to six small (1/4") air holes at the bottom should provide proper gas exchange.
OK, now most of the hard part is done, next you need to decide on a digital proportional thermostat. I would personally spend as much money as you can afford on a thermostat!!! End of the day you get what you pay for the last thing you want is to spend all this time and effort pairing, cooling, mating to have it all thrown away because of a cheap stat!!!
Contico high-top boxes to contain retic eggs while incubating. These boxes will comfortably fit any average retic clutch in them. I put 4, 1/16" holes (one in each corner) in the lid of the box for good gas exchange.
Next, put about 2 inches of vermiculite or a vermiculite/perlite mixture(50/50), the ratio of water to vermiculite is 1:1 by WEIGHT......confidentially, I have never weighed vermiculite in my life, I just go by when it feels right.
Now, your incubator has been running for a couple days, you’re happy with the ambient temperature, and you've figured out how to run your thermostat, you've even gotten anxious and made up a box of vermiculite and water days in advance of your female retic laying her eggs.
You walk into your snake room to discover your retic has laid her eggs things to do are:
1. Get some help, even if they are just watching and you are going to do all the work. At least one additional person besides you NEEDS to be there just in case even if it’s to laugh and take pictures of you getting nailed!!!
2. Have your incubation box handy so the eggs you are getting ready to steal can quickly go into the incubator.
3. Strategy is good, think of exactly how you want to move the female off the eggs. Mistakes at this point could cost you nice bill for stitches or even your life, remember those are HER BABIES, she will die for them.
4. Get some welders gloves (or a head to toe Kevlar suit) on and get the female off the eggs, carefully...
OK, she’s off the eggs; you will now notice that most if not all the eggs are stuck together quite firmly. If they aren’t try to gently separate them if they are DO NOT try and separate them from one another. Gently, move and lift the entire clutch out of the snake’s cage. If you are doing this from any serious distance from the ground, have your helper hold the incubation box under the clutch as you gently lower them to the ground.
OK, now your eggs are safely in their box, the female’s vivarium is closed, and you are making your way to the incubator with your new retic eggs.
You should have a digital thermometer or some sort of temperature sensor in with the eggs during incubation, it will help you be less paranoid.
Retic eggs take 87 days to hatch at 90 degrees, less than 90 they take longer to hatch, more than 90 they cook.
Check on them once every couple days, make sure the vermiculite feels like it’s still retaining moisture well and that all the eggs appear white, healthy and full, no collapsing.
Your female will not eat until she sheds, which will be 2-4 weeks after she laid her eggs. After she sheds, take her out and clean the cage very well, she will not eat if she still smells her eggs.




References

www.reptileforum.co.uk