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Apr 25, 2009

BALL PYTHON CARESHEET

GENERAL INFORMATION




The proper name for ball pythons is Python Regius and are also commonly known as Royal Pythons. In North America they are commonly named ball pythons based on their habit of curling up into a tight ball when feeling threatened. That is their primary defense and are known for their gentle personalities. Very rarely will a ball python ever bite, and when they do it is usually a case of mistaken identity.
Originally come from west Africa. Ghana, Benin and Togo are the main countries that they populate although small groups are being discovered and bred elsewhere.
They live right on the equator and experience a 12/12 light cycle. They are primarily a nocturnal animal that leave their dens, usually made up of old termite mounds, at night in search for food. They primarily feed on rodents and are constrictors, meaning they are NOT venomous.
Ball pythons can grow to be 6 feet in length, but 4 to 4 1/2 feet is more common. Females are bigger with males averaging out at 3 - 4 feet in length.
As a general rule of thumb, females reach sexual maturity their 3rd winter although some reach it earlier. This is certainly the exception and not the rule.
Males achieve sexual maturity as early as 6 months but again this is the exception and not the rule. Usually their second winter is the time they start to breed.
Ball pythons come in many different morphs. Probably more morphs than any other snake today. They are gentle, non-aggressive snake that have personalities that are endearing. They like to be held and very rarely try to get away.
They are quiet and with water can be left while going on vacation without a problem. They can be fed every 7 - 14 days without any negative effects and they only relieve themselves based on the frequency of meals.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Beginner
The ball python is a good snake for a beginning snake owner. Growing to a maximum size of 3-5 feet, ball pythons are not as large as many of the other constricting snakes that are kept as pets, and are quite docile and easy to handle. A captive bred ball python usually flourishes given the proper care.
I always suggest to purchase captive breed ball python. Captive bred snakes tend to be more expensive and sometimes harder to find, but they are well worth the extra cost. Choose a snake that has a well rounded body, clean eyes and vent, and that shows no signs of respiratory problems (wheezing, bubbles around nostrils). Look for one that is alert and curious and gently grips your hand/arms when handled (they may be skittish but should calm after handling for a bit). It is not a bad idea to ask for a feeding demonstration to be sure the snake readily takes a meal.

HOUSING

Ball pythons are not terribly active snakes, so a smaller enclosure is fine. The general rule of thumb is an aquarium or better yet, terrarium, that is 2/3 the length of your snake. However, they are adept escape artists, so a securely fitted top is an absolutely necessary.
Substrate
Shredded bark, newsprint, Astroturf. Astroturf is probably the easiest - cut a few pieces to fit the cage, and simply replace the dirty pieces as necessary (the soiled pieces can be soaked in a solution of one gallon of water with 2 tablespoons of bleach, rinsed well, dried and then used again).

Furnishings

Provide sturdy branches and a dark hiding place (they like to feel securely enclosed, so it should be just large enough to accommodate the snake).
Temperature
The temperature for ball python is 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C) as long as an area of 80 F is maintained. An under the tank heating pad designed for reptiles works well for providing the cage heat, with an incandescent bulb or ceramic heating element used to provide the basking temperatures. Never use hot rocks, and the bulb or heat element should be placed or screened off to prevent contact with the snake or burns may result. Use multiple thermometers to monitor the temperatures in the cage (one at the bottom of the cage and one at the basking spot).

Lighting
Ball Pythons are nocturnal, so have no special lighting requirements. However, they are nocturnal, so incandescent bulbs should not be used at night (to preserve the light/dark cycle the snake needs) - instead use red, blue or black bulbs.
Water and Humidity
Provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).

FEEDING

Ball pythons can be fed exclusively mice or small to medium sized rats (as appropriate for the size of the snake), and only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a little longer (i.e. 10 - 14 days). Use pre-killed prey as live mice can injure a snake - dangling the prey in front of the snake with forceps usually gets the snake interested.
Moving the snake out of its cage into a separate enclosure for feeding is a good idea and will help in the taming process. The snake will associate eating with the other enclosure, and is less likely to confuse your hand for prey when you put your hand into the cage. This will make it easier to reach into the cage to get the ball python out for handling.
Even captive bred ball pythons sometimes refuse to eat, fasting for a couple of months. As long as body weight and condition are maintained, this is not problematic. If your snake stops eating, carefully examine the husbandry, handling, health, and environment of the snake to make sure stress isn't the culprit. Consult a knowledgeable vet or experienced keeper for help if the fast is prolonged or causing weight loss. If necessary, some tricks to entice a python to eat include dipping the prey in chicken broth, trying different colors of mice, exposing the brain of the prey before feeding it, feeding at night, covering the cage with towels after offering a mouse. You may even want to try feeding a hamster or gerbil, although this may make your snake more likely to refuse mice if it develops a preference for hamsters and gerbils.

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