BALL PYTHONS MORPHS (part I )

Genetics technology advancement helps the snake breeder to make new morphs. Now there’re a lot of wonderful ball python morphs. I will explain several BP morphs that have found by breeders.

to be continued

BALL PYTHON CARESHEET

GENERAL INFORMATION




The proper name for ball pythons is Python Regius and are also commonly known as Royal Pythons. In North America they are commonly named ball pythons based on their habit of curling up into a tight ball when feeling threatened. That is their primary defense and are known for their gentle personalities. Very rarely will a ball python ever bite, and when they do it is usually a case of mistaken identity.
Originally come from west Africa. Ghana, Benin and Togo are the main countries that they populate although small groups are being discovered and bred elsewhere.
They live right on the equator and experience a 12/12 light cycle. They are primarily a nocturnal animal that leave their dens, usually made up of old termite mounds, at night in search for food. They primarily feed on rodents and are constrictors, meaning they are NOT venomous.
Ball pythons can grow to be 6 feet in length, but 4 to 4 1/2 feet is more common. Females are bigger with males averaging out at 3 - 4 feet in length.
As a general rule of thumb, females reach sexual maturity their 3rd winter although some reach it earlier. This is certainly the exception and not the rule.
Males achieve sexual maturity as early as 6 months but again this is the exception and not the rule. Usually their second winter is the time they start to breed.
Ball pythons come in many different morphs. Probably more morphs than any other snake today. They are gentle, non-aggressive snake that have personalities that are endearing. They like to be held and very rarely try to get away.
They are quiet and with water can be left while going on vacation without a problem. They can be fed every 7 - 14 days without any negative effects and they only relieve themselves based on the frequency of meals.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Beginner
The ball python is a good snake for a beginning snake owner. Growing to a maximum size of 3-5 feet, ball pythons are not as large as many of the other constricting snakes that are kept as pets, and are quite docile and easy to handle. A captive bred ball python usually flourishes given the proper care.
I always suggest to purchase captive breed ball python. Captive bred snakes tend to be more expensive and sometimes harder to find, but they are well worth the extra cost. Choose a snake that has a well rounded body, clean eyes and vent, and that shows no signs of respiratory problems (wheezing, bubbles around nostrils). Look for one that is alert and curious and gently grips your hand/arms when handled (they may be skittish but should calm after handling for a bit). It is not a bad idea to ask for a feeding demonstration to be sure the snake readily takes a meal.

HOUSING

Ball pythons are not terribly active snakes, so a smaller enclosure is fine. The general rule of thumb is an aquarium or better yet, terrarium, that is 2/3 the length of your snake. However, they are adept escape artists, so a securely fitted top is an absolutely necessary.
Substrate
Shredded bark, newsprint, Astroturf. Astroturf is probably the easiest - cut a few pieces to fit the cage, and simply replace the dirty pieces as necessary (the soiled pieces can be soaked in a solution of one gallon of water with 2 tablespoons of bleach, rinsed well, dried and then used again).

Furnishings

Provide sturdy branches and a dark hiding place (they like to feel securely enclosed, so it should be just large enough to accommodate the snake).
Temperature
The temperature for ball python is 80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C) as long as an area of 80 F is maintained. An under the tank heating pad designed for reptiles works well for providing the cage heat, with an incandescent bulb or ceramic heating element used to provide the basking temperatures. Never use hot rocks, and the bulb or heat element should be placed or screened off to prevent contact with the snake or burns may result. Use multiple thermometers to monitor the temperatures in the cage (one at the bottom of the cage and one at the basking spot).

Lighting
Ball Pythons are nocturnal, so have no special lighting requirements. However, they are nocturnal, so incandescent bulbs should not be used at night (to preserve the light/dark cycle the snake needs) - instead use red, blue or black bulbs.
Water and Humidity
Provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).

FEEDING

Ball pythons can be fed exclusively mice or small to medium sized rats (as appropriate for the size of the snake), and only need to be fed every week or two. Young snakes should be fed fuzzy mice every 5-7 days, older snakes should be fed increasingly larger prey and can go a little longer (i.e. 10 - 14 days). Use pre-killed prey as live mice can injure a snake - dangling the prey in front of the snake with forceps usually gets the snake interested.
Moving the snake out of its cage into a separate enclosure for feeding is a good idea and will help in the taming process. The snake will associate eating with the other enclosure, and is less likely to confuse your hand for prey when you put your hand into the cage. This will make it easier to reach into the cage to get the ball python out for handling.
Even captive bred ball pythons sometimes refuse to eat, fasting for a couple of months. As long as body weight and condition are maintained, this is not problematic. If your snake stops eating, carefully examine the husbandry, handling, health, and environment of the snake to make sure stress isn't the culprit. Consult a knowledgeable vet or experienced keeper for help if the fast is prolonged or causing weight loss. If necessary, some tricks to entice a python to eat include dipping the prey in chicken broth, trying different colors of mice, exposing the brain of the prey before feeding it, feeding at night, covering the cage with towels after offering a mouse. You may even want to try feeding a hamster or gerbil, although this may make your snake more likely to refuse mice if it develops a preference for hamsters and gerbils.

RETIC BREEDING SECTION

ADULTHOOD
By this stage I would be feed maybe once every two weeks but on LARGE meals (depending once again on the snake) either large Guinea pigs probably four to six or large rabbits two to four maybe even lambs or goats.
And please remember do not over feed these snakes, they are fast growing as they are, plus like before I said what you put down your snakes throat has to come out one way or another, and believe me when I say this a snake regurge is one of the worst smells I have ever smelt!!!!

PAIRING
Pairing and breeding Reticulated python can be Dangerous these snakes are not like Burmese pythons when breeding burms I would use two males to one female, you can NOT do this with retic’s NEVER put two male retic’s in together as they will battle each other with devastating bites and slashing’s to each other, I have a friend who bred this species years ago before there was any info on them and one of his males ended up with 180 stitch’s! Plus he almost ended up with a few him self when he had to separate them. Always make sure you have your retic’s sexed (IE probed) before pairing!!!
Males reach sexually maturity between three to four years and should be about ten feet minimum and slender, remember as long as the male is sexually mature its best to have a small slender male as these tend to be more sexually active than a stockier snake, some males could be ready sooner than others, like people some get there sooner than others!
Females tend to reach sexual maturity at four years and be a minimum of thirteen feet and a good weight, with female snakes hefty almost over weight is good, remember once the female has become gravid she will not eat until she lays the egg, and to gain a good healthy clutch of eggs you will need the female to be healthy and to have a good fat reserve is critical. The bigger the length of a female the better she will be for breading.

BREEDING
Cooling these snakes can be dangerous if not done correctly, I would suggest dropping the temp 1 degree every week till you get both down to around 70s possibly even to 65F but no lower. The peak mating seasons for Retic’s are from September through November. Oviposition has been reported from December through to May.
Gestation periods can vary, it has been known from a single mating a gestation period of 65 to 105 days has happened. To my knowledge this variation is not temperature related. A good indication to tell if you’re a male is ready for breading is to check for sperm plugs.

COPULATION



If the male and the female are ready, and the environment and the temperature is suitable, the copulation will be happened. The male retic will insert its hemi-penis into female retic’s genital.

GRAVID FEMALES
Taking the eggs from the females and artificially incubating the eggs is the only way to go. I don't know anyone that leaves the eggs with the female. Taking the eggs from the female allows you to:
1. Directly control the environment that the eggs are in.
2. Get the female back on food in a matter of weeks.
3. make sure every egg has a chance of hatching. (The female can sometimes defecate on the eggs and it will cause them to turn bad)



You can make your own incubator, it’s not hard, but you have to build it around the massive clutch size of a retic. Your standard foam "hovabator" type incubator is completely useless in this situation. Many people find old refrigerator /Freezer/ drink coolers, and convert them into an incubator.
Hypothetically, you find an upright freezer, take out the shelves and clean it out very well, get you an 8-10ft piece of the 11" wide heat mat and stick it to the inner wall of the freezer, all the way around the sides and bottom. You’ll need 2-4 little computer fans, for air circulation. The idea is to have all the shelves in the incubator reading the same temperature. One fan facing down, one facing left, one facing up, one facing right, and you should be set there. Wire up the heat mat, drill a small hole in the freezer, thread an electric wire (extension cord with plug cut off) through the hole, wire it up, and make it safe so you don't shock yourself. Four to six small (1/4") air holes at the bottom should provide proper gas exchange.
OK, now most of the hard part is done, next you need to decide on a digital proportional thermostat. I would personally spend as much money as you can afford on a thermostat!!! End of the day you get what you pay for the last thing you want is to spend all this time and effort pairing, cooling, mating to have it all thrown away because of a cheap stat!!!
Contico high-top boxes to contain retic eggs while incubating. These boxes will comfortably fit any average retic clutch in them. I put 4, 1/16" holes (one in each corner) in the lid of the box for good gas exchange.
Next, put about 2 inches of vermiculite or a vermiculite/perlite mixture(50/50), the ratio of water to vermiculite is 1:1 by WEIGHT......confidentially, I have never weighed vermiculite in my life, I just go by when it feels right.
Now, your incubator has been running for a couple days, you’re happy with the ambient temperature, and you've figured out how to run your thermostat, you've even gotten anxious and made up a box of vermiculite and water days in advance of your female retic laying her eggs.
You walk into your snake room to discover your retic has laid her eggs things to do are:
1. Get some help, even if they are just watching and you are going to do all the work. At least one additional person besides you NEEDS to be there just in case even if it’s to laugh and take pictures of you getting nailed!!!
2. Have your incubation box handy so the eggs you are getting ready to steal can quickly go into the incubator.
3. Strategy is good, think of exactly how you want to move the female off the eggs. Mistakes at this point could cost you nice bill for stitches or even your life, remember those are HER BABIES, she will die for them.
4. Get some welders gloves (or a head to toe Kevlar suit) on and get the female off the eggs, carefully...
OK, she’s off the eggs; you will now notice that most if not all the eggs are stuck together quite firmly. If they aren’t try to gently separate them if they are DO NOT try and separate them from one another. Gently, move and lift the entire clutch out of the snake’s cage. If you are doing this from any serious distance from the ground, have your helper hold the incubation box under the clutch as you gently lower them to the ground.
OK, now your eggs are safely in their box, the female’s vivarium is closed, and you are making your way to the incubator with your new retic eggs.
You should have a digital thermometer or some sort of temperature sensor in with the eggs during incubation, it will help you be less paranoid.
Retic eggs take 87 days to hatch at 90 degrees, less than 90 they take longer to hatch, more than 90 they cook.
Check on them once every couple days, make sure the vermiculite feels like it’s still retaining moisture well and that all the eggs appear white, healthy and full, no collapsing.
Your female will not eat until she sheds, which will be 2-4 weeks after she laid her eggs. After she sheds, take her out and clean the cage very well, she will not eat if she still smells her eggs.




References

www.reptileforum.co.uk

RETIC CARESHEETS

GENERAL INFORMATION
Python Reticulatus is a species of python found in Southeast Asia, especially in Indonesia, Philippines, and Thailand. Adults grow to a average 17 feet in lengths. They are the longest snake in the world. Records for this Giant are 33 and a half feet and 320 pounds this snake was wild court and believed to be a Sulawesi or a Makasar Retic. In my opinion the Sulawesi Retic is the same as a Makasar Retic as Sulawesi is a part of the Makasar Island.



VISUAL CHARACTERISTICS
These snakes have the ability to grow huge so I would suggest trying to get one of these snakes as young as possible and start working with it as soon as possible! These snakes can grow from 16 inch’s to 24ft plus very quickly. Reticulated pythons are somewhat slender for their length & develop a very muscular girth that tends to stay round, instead of flattening out as in other large constrictors. These giant pythons are extremely variable, with net-like or rope-like patterning on a silver or tan-silver background. The dorsal pattern is typically the base color of the snake and bordered in black and yellow, orange or brown. The lateral blotches are light in color. The entire body radiates an iridescent sheen.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
Advanced.
They are not suitable for beginner because of their size. Keeper should have previous experience with large snakes and be comfortable with their care and handling. Reticulated pythons are usually what their keeper has made them. If properly kept by a knowledgeable owner they behave well and are a spectacular sight as a large tame python. Aware to buy wild caught (WC) retics because if they become bigger, their wild instinct can be appeared again. Purchase captive bread (CB) retics. CB retics are often friendly and feed more readily and grow into fantastic pets that are more alert than many other boids. If raised properly in captivity and handled they can be excellent animals. They are very aware and intelligent snakes that often interact with you not as a pet but more as an equal, and please remember this as there sheer size deserves your up most respect.
The reasons why I suggest you to purchase CB retics are as follows:
1. They will hopefully have less health problem.
2. They will tend to settle in better and be more ready to feed.
3. They will 9/10 tamer, little or large retic bite’s hurt.
4. My favorite is that CB don’t tend to musk on you.


HOUSING

Caging
Cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, ventilated, and hold heat to ensure proper temperatures. Avoid unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages; these surfaces are difficult to clean and disinfect

Heating
Variable setting under cage heating pads (used for people, never rest weight of cage on pad), thermostatically controlled lights and/or under cage heat strips, and hot rocks. Don't use a small hot rock for an animal that is proportionately larger; burns often result if the animal is forced to rest on this type of heat source. A heat source should warm 1/3 to 1/2 of the cage with a basking floor temperature of 88 - 92F. Use a thermometer! The unheated area should never drop below 73F. It may be necessary when using aquariums to cover part of the lid with plastic to maintain ideal temperatures. It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area(provides a heat gradient) so that the snake can regulate its body temperature itself. Caution should be used when using lamps. If the heat is extreme it may dry out the animal, and create health problems, kill or burn the animal. It is better to heat with an under cage heater and a lamp. Red lights are ideal for heating and don't disrupt the photoperiod. Avoid large wattage bulbs (100+watt) when possible. The heat provided is often too focused and may burn!

Lighting
12 hours on, 12 hours off, incandescent or fluorescent. Never leave visible lights on continuously, this causes stress

Furnishing
A water dish large enough to allow the animal to soak and located near the heat source. Always provide clean water, dehydration can kill your animal! Disinfect bowl weekly. A hide box or shelter in the heated end of the cage provides security. A hide box may also be provided in the cooler area; always locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security ( hide box) and heat.

Substrates
Newspaper, paper towels, paper bags, or artificial grass are safe and inexpensive. Aspen bedding also may be used, but it is advisable to feed on a different surface, since the bedding could lodge in the snake's mouth. Gravel, sand, mulch and shaving may cause health problems such as intestinal blockage, skin lesions and mouth rot. Cedar is deadly to reptiles!!!!

FEEDING
A baby retic should begin feeding on weanling mice(21 days old) or rat crawlers. A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a locking plastic shoe box style container (with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour, then introducing a food item. At 3', the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 5', it is capable of consuming adult rats. Frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get, feed less often to slow the growth rate. Feed at least once every 10 days, when the snake begins feeding on large meals such as rabbits feeding can occur less frequently. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed warmed rodents at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by a rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animal's growth rate and condition and may occur every 3-6 weeks. African rock pythons may refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; it is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake's cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet!!!! Provide food and water for any rodent left in the snake's cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6' it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents and move it to a feeding container prior to food offering. If moved to a feeding container for all feedings it may become conditioned not to expect food while in its cage. This may reduce the possibility of being mistaken as a food item by an over excited feeder. Best method is to place dead rodent in container and let snake discover it, encourages gentle food acquisition. Maintain feeding and health records. Reluctant Feeders-- May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts and appears to be wasting, consult a veterinarian or experienced herper.

SHEDDING
When your retic is coming up for shed its skin shall go dull then turn a milky colour then its eyes should milk over, a Retic skin is a lot thinner than most other snakes which can cause problems like what I mentioned before like scale rot! IE if you leave the shed skin on the chances are your retic might not be able to get this off and it could cause scale rot. Scale rot can be caused with skin that hasn’t been shed off do to a bad shed stopping the new fresh from breathing and causing the new skin to rot!!
When your Retic is coming up to shed you should have a bowl big enough for it to submerge in but this isn’t always possible, I always use one of the spray bottles with a fine mist setting and mist my snakes and there enclosure some times up to four times a day the more moisture there is on your snake the easer it will shed, also try to give your Retic something to rub up against to help with shedding, rocks, cork bark or drift wood are all good!!

HANDLING
Characteristics a snake with a huge size potential, and an undeserved bad reputation. Some specimens may behave more aggressively than other boids. Retics have an a strong feeding response and wild caught retics are terrified which has given them a reputation as being nasty. Wild caught and unhandled snake's may be difficult to handle and will bite to escape. Captive born retics are often friendly and grow to be wonderful beast. More alert than many other boids. If raised properly in captivity and handled frequently they can be excellent animals. Avoid large wild caught snakes, they are typically aggressive and may never establish themselves as suitable pets. Initially an animal may be apt to bite(use gloves) due to fear but with handling, trust must be established and biting should cease. Typically, as an animal grows larger (12'+) in captivity it will slow down and become more personable. Always support a snake's body; avoid fast movements. Do not treat the snake as a toy. Avoid techniques which restricts a snake's movement. Avoid public situations which draw attention to the animal since this is stressful to the animal and possibly your audience. A nervous snake may occasionally bite; if biting occurs and is a problem, wear gloves. The handler must convince the snake that it is safe, trust must be learned. Snake's bite for two reasons: they have mistaken you as food or they are in fear for their safety. Snake's do not bite because they are mean.

DISEASE AND INFECTION
These snakes suffer from problems such as:
1). Respiratory infections manifest themselves as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites. To treat, increase the temperature to 90F and reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian.
2). Mouth rot manifest itself as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from the conditions of (1) and rubbing on rough surfaces, rodent bites and materials lodged in mouth. To treat, increase temperature to 90F, clean infected area with a solution of 1.5% hydrogen peroxide(dilute 50:50), remove loose material and swab with betadine 2X daily. If condition persist, medical attention is needed.
3). Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel.
4). Thermal burns and Belly Rot are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions.
5). Mites are small blood sucking ectoparasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black dots on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin, etc.). 6) Ticks are blood sucking ectoparasites that are often found on wild caught animals. Removal of ticks is achieved by a clockwise twisting of the parasite or suffocating the tick with vaseline until it dies in a few days and then removing. 7) Internal parasites can be a problem, especially with imported animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, and depression are all possible signs of a parasitic infestation. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites. Refer to Snake Disorder care card.


Reference
www.wikipedia.org
www.angelfire.com
www.reptilesforums.co.uk

GREEN TREE PYTHON LOCALITIES

There are four generally recognized geographic races of the Green Tree Python.
These geographic races are distinct from each other, especially the two island forms which tend to enjoy unique traits due to the isolation of their respective gene pools, being located on islands. A Race is defined as a group identified by common morphological traits (appearance) and is not necessarily given subspecific status. Currently, none of the races of GTPs are recognized as a subspecies.
Do not confuse Race with Locality. Locality is defined as a specific location. Locality-specific reptiles, including chondros, are those with verifiable collecting data. No data, no locality - it's that simple. Remember, locality identifications are not made visually, they are the result of having collecting data. Some information about locality-specific GTPs can be found at the bottom of this page.
It is easy to see that in light of these definitions, there are very few true locality chondros, regardless of the claims made by dealers. However, some chondros can be sight-identified as belonging to one of the four described races. Captive bred chondros of mixed ancestry (which is most of them) often show traits from several groups (or none at all). Therefore, care must be exercised when making claims for specific race distinctions.
The designation of "type", as in "Biak-type", is used my most conscientious keepers to designate specimens that conform to a specific phenotype, but in fact do not have any documentation of origin or founder stock.
For an in-depth treatment of the important topics of Race and Locality, including a high quality digital relief map of New Guinea with localities and race boundaries designated, and beautiful color photos of the four race groups. Some brief descriptions are found below.





Biak Island Types



Chondros from the Biak and Yapen Islands, being isolated geographically, often exhibit distinct and recognizable traits. Biaks have large heads with long snouts, long, sharply pointed tails, attain a larger size than mainland animals, and are stout and robust animals. The main color is a light green, often with patches of yellow present. Those from Yapen are reported to have white spots as well. Most Biaks have yellow face markings.
They are also well-known for having bad tempers, and some individuals can make working their cages difficult even during daylight hours. Biak types also are known for taking much longer to complete their color change from neonate to adult colors, and often go through a yellow or orange phase with high contrast, large markings. This causes some owners of these animals to get prematurely excited about what the animal will ultimately look like. It is believed that Biak blood, when crossed with mainland bloodlines, has the potential to produce some of the very attractive morphs sometimes seen. The Biak-like head and tail shape is frequently still seen in such crosses.

Aru Island Types



The second of the two island forms, Aru chondros are a beautiful green color, with blue on the labials, bellies, and extending onto the sides of some specimens. They usually have white spots randomly scattered on the dorsal, and some specimens are heavily marked with white. Such animals are not common. Arus have a smaller, more blunt head shape than Biaks, and a very blunt tail that looks as if the tip has been cut off. A few individuals are working with documented locality specific Aru chondros, but the vast majority are lacking such documentation, and should be labeled as Aru types. Those with a lot of blue and white on them are very desirable, whether they come with locality documentation or not. Captive bred Arus usually have placid temperaments, but wild imports can be snappy.

The Mainland Sorong Types



Mainland chondros are far more variable than the two island races. New Guinea is large and rugged, and there are many populations of GTPs that are not geographically isolated from each other. This results in the blending of traits, making mainland animals more difficult to describe and identify.
Several mainland towns have lent their names to chondro "localities", but in fact these are simply human population centers where the collection and exportation of the pythons have been facilitated. Sorong and Jayapura are two commonly used names, and "Sorong" has come to be closely identified with certain mainland traits. PNG is used to designate animals believed to have their roots from the Papaua New Guinea side of the Island country. (Irian Jaya, the western half of the island, is now called West Papua.)
Sorong type animals are noted for having a blue stripe down the dorsal area, with blue triangles alternating off of it. They also may have blue spots or bars on the sides of the body. Some have yellowish bellies, and white spots here and there are not uncommon. Sorong animals have small chunky heads and shorter noses. The tail is often black, and not as sharply pointed as is seen with the Biak type, but not as blunt as Aru tails. CB specimens are usually calm. These are often the smallest of the four races. It is believed that females from the mainland are the type that most often turn blue during pregnancy.

Cape York and Merauke Types



These handsome serpents are distinguished by having a nearly solid white chain of spots down the center of the spine. They are a very attractive lime green, and the belly is often bluish. A docile personality usually compliments the stunning good looks of these animals. They are found on the Cape York Peninsula of Australia, and in the Merauke region of West Papua just west of the PNG border. There are not many specimens of this type in the US, and true locality-specific, documented animals are being bred by Damon Salceies. It was two animals from this group that produced the first albino in 2002. I am hoping to acquire stock from this race for my collection. The strict ban on exportation of any indigenous wild life from Australia has made it extremely difficult to get any Cape York specimens into breeding projects.

Locality Specific Chondros

As noted in the definitions at the beginning of this section, there are few chondros or breeding projects that have true, verifiable collecting documentation. However, there are some individuals who are working with such animals.
Many so-called locality names have popped up in recent years, primarily in Internet reptile classified ads. Usually these dealers have low credibility, do a quick sidestep of any questions about documentation, and some become openly hostile that questions are even asked. Among these names are Wamena, Lereh, Karubaga, Nabire, Cyclops, and Bokondini. While these are all actual places, not all of them relate to unique GTP populations.
One popular designation of locality typing is the "highland" form. These are animals collected at higher elevations, and reported to have some subtle but identifiable characteristics. One European breeder who claims to be working with groups of chondros having documented locality founder stock is Freek Nuyt (pronounced "Thrake"). I have corresponded with Mr. Nuyt on several occasions, and found him to be helpful, knowledgeable, and credible. I am not going so far as to stake my reputation on everything he claims, but I have been impressed with the information he has given me.
According to him, the highland populations of Lereh and Wamena are distinct from each other, and have somewhat distinct morphological tendencies. He further states that Karubaga and Bokondini are closely located to Wamena, and that he hasn't seen any evidence that would validate recognizing either of them as true localities. Wamena animals tend to have blue outlines on the dorsal with white or yellow spots inside them, while Lereh specimens have more elongated, teardrop shaped dorsal markings. Mr. Nuyt claims that the pigmented tails of the lowland Sorong specimens sets them apart from these highland populations.


Tail of the Lowland Sorong

Obviously there is much more research and documentation that is needed, but a lot has been learned in the last several years. The rugged terrain and political instability of Indonesia make field work difficult, and even less is known about the variations of GTP populations from PNG. There is a lot of work to be done, and we may never really know all there is to know. It is important to stick with known facts and data, and to refrain from making unsubstantiated claims about locality animals. One thing is sure: All of them are chondros, and all of them are beautiful!


Refences :
www.finegtps.com

CAGE SET UP FOR GREEN TREE PYTHON

Green Tree Pythons are arboreal snakes so we must preparing suitable environment so that they can live well like in their habitats. The habitat of chondros is rainforest in New Guinea, Indonesia and the northern tip of Australia so we must set up heating, lighting, humidity, etc.

Heat
Captive chondros do best with a thermal gradient established in the cage. A horizontal gradient is much preferred over a vertical one. Most chondros will perch in the highest part of the cage and will often ignore a vertical gradient. The gradient should be between 78F and 89F with an average temperature of 85 degrees or so. Most captives seek out temperatures around 84-85F under normal conditions, but may bask under warmer temps after eating and at other times. Avoid temperatures under 75F and over 90F.
The best and easiest way to provide heat for display type cages is with an overhead radiant heat panel. I use and recommend those sold by Pro Products. These panels work very well, and most importantly they will not burn your animals.

Lighting
While chondros do not need any special lighting, such as a Vita-lite or other brands that provide full spectrum light, they do respond well to some type of florescent light that provides a 12-hour photoperiod as a part of each 24 hour cycle. If you are using a fluorescent cage light, you may as well use a full spectrum bulb, because they will show your animal's true colors and beauty. A simple lamp timer is an easy way to regulate the daily photoperiod. Tree pythons are highly nocturnal, and many will not feed except at night. It is natural for them to enjoy a long dark period as a part of each 24 hour cycle.


Green Tree Python Cage Sample

Humidity
This is an important topic when discussing chondro husbandry, and is one that causes unnecessary confusion. The level of humidity in a given environment will be based on a number of factors such as how much moisture is added to the cage daily, temperature, ventilation, how well the cage substrate holds and releases moisture, etc. You will need to experiment with your own set up and existing factors, adjusting these until you have the correct balance. Use observation as the best guide, which is better than attempting to maintain a specific percentage of relative humidity. Also, remember that just having a wet cage interior is not the same as providing humidity, which is the amount of moisture in the air. For example, an excessively ventilated cage can have standing water on the floor and still not be humid.
Many people have an exaggerated idea of how much humidity these snakes require. They may suffer health problems if kept too wet, including skin infections. The only time to err on the wet side is during the animal’s shed cycle. Chondros are very thin skinned and sheds will dry on them very easily if the relative humidity is too low during the shedding period. The goal should be a gradual drying out period at night and early morning, followed by an increase in humidity in the afternoon and early evening. Condensation on the glass 24 hours a day, or the growth of mildew or mold, indicates excessive humidity. On the other hand, if the cage is dry three hours after spraying, there is not enough humidity. A hand-held mister or pressure sprayer works just fine for daily misting. I have used automatic misting systems and do not care for them. Another important point to remember is that chondros may drink off of themselves after misting, so keep the water and the sprayer clean!
To sum up...provide moderate to heavy humidity, along with an overnight drying out period. Regulate cage humidity by increasing or decreasing the amount of misting and dampness in the cage substrate, along with adjusting the ventilation. And remember, other than at shedding time, humidity is not critical. Getting it right is important to the long term health of your animals, but having it too high or too low for brief periods won't hurt anything.

Substrate
The purpose of the cage substrate is to provide an easy to clean material that will hold and release moisture. Newspaper works well and is easy to replace. Red cypress mulch is an ideal substrate material...it smells and looks very nice and holds moisture well, plus it is inexpensive. I do not like green indoor-outdoor carpeting as it can hold a lot of filth, and stays wet underneath providing a place for bacteria to grow. Do not use standing water as a substrate. I don't know how that idea got started, but it is potentially unsanitary, and difficult to keep clean. Avoid any materials that grow mold quickly when damp. Be careful to make sure that you keep these substrates clean and free from mold since the Green Tree Python's cage is normally high in humidity. We also recommend that you use Sphagnum Moss in your terrarium since this will help keep the humidity to proper levels.

Perches
Chondros spend most of their time perched on some type of branch. You will need to provide them with some type of secure perch that is about the same body diameter as the animal you are housing. I use real wood perches in most of my cages, cut from Sugar Maple trees. These look great, are safe and non-toxic, clean up easily by scrubbing with a stiff brush and some hot water, are free, and don't grow mold like wood dowel rod does. Wash cut branches thoroughly, and make sure there are no parasites in or on them. Branches cut from live trees rarely have parasites inside. Other perch materials that work well are plastic rods and PVC pipes of the correct diameter. Avoid using hardwood dowels from the hardware store, because these mildew and discolor quickly. Make sure to mount your perches securely so they won't rotate or fall when the animals use them. I use hooks and screw-in eyes from the hardware store to hang my perches, and I use branches that are forked so I have a three-point contact when hanging them...this prevents them from rotating.

Plants
Live plants look nice if kept moderate in size, and can contribute to a good atmosphere in the cage. Pothos works very well and looks great. The trouble with live Pothos and other plants is that they need a lot of light to grow, and won't thrive under the limited florescent light recommended for chondro cages. They also require pruning, watering, and fertilization. A great alternative to live plants are good quality silk plants, obtainable from craft supply stores. Regardless of what you use, make sure to wash it first. Live plants must be assumed to have insecticide on them and in the soil, so be sure to replace the soil and wash the leaves well.

Drinking Water
Water bowl size is not critical, and a large one will help increase humidity. Too large of a water bowl will make cleaning it and changing the water a chore, which you will then tend to put off. Keeping the bowl clean and the water fresh is more important than bowl size. I am not in favor of the practice of placing water bowls on top of heating pads to increase humidity. Heated water grows bacteria more quickly, and I don't like drinking warm water so I don't think my chondros would either. As was mentioned in the humidity section, chondros will often drink droplets of water off of themselves after misting. Because of this, make sure the water you spray on them and the cage interior is safe and clean, as well as keeping the sprayer clean. Don't use petroleum based lubricants on pump sprayers, as this goes into the water. Use olive oil.
Some individuals tend to complicate GTP husbandry by suggesting elaborate or impractical methods for providing the animals' needs, and hydration is one of these issues. There is no need for foggers, humidity contraptions, elevated water bowls, or other such devices. Healthy chondros, kept in a proper environment, do not have a predisposition to dehydration. True expertise with these animals is reflected in simple and easy care information that is time-proven to be effective.

Cage Setup
To sum up, set up your cage with a horizontal thermal gradient between 82-88 degrees. Use a high quality proportional thermostat to regulate an overhead heat panel, hanging the thermostat probe under the heater at perch height. Use a good thermometer to establish cage temps - don't guess. Provide clean drinking water in a medium sized bowl, and spray daily to develop a high humidity period that dries slowly. Use a timer to establish a twelve hour photoperiod.

References :
www.finegtps.com

GREEN TREE PYTHON CARESHEETS

GENERAL INFORMATIONS

Green Tree Pythons are a small and slender species that are incredibly variable in color with most being green but with some having yellow and even blue colors. It's been the reputation of the Green Tree Python that they are somewhat vicious and aggressive. However, this reputation is undeserving for captive bred Green Tree Pythons since they are usually quite docile unless the handler does something that provokes it. The Green Tree Python are native to New Guinea, Indonesia and the northern tip of Australia and is almost entirely arboreal preferring to stay curled over a tree branch. In general, an adult Green Tree Python reaches sizes in the 4 to 6 foot range.

TIPS FOR YOUR FIRST GREEN TREE PYTHON

First you must decide to choose the quality breeders. You are not shopping for the right animals early as you looking for the right breeders! A committed breeder will be dedicated to your success and satisfaction, and chances are that even with the purchase of a healthy captive bred animal you will need some help and advice...know who you are buying from.

HANDLING AND TEMPERAMENT

Green tree pythons are long known to be very aggressive snakes. This is especially true with wild caught animals, but quite the opposite can be found with captive bred animals more accustomed to captivity. As with most arboreal snakes, GTPs also have very long teeth to help avoid dropping prey. These teeth make bites quite memorable. Because of this, handling is usually kept to a minimum.


HOUSING

Baby and Juvenile Green Tree Pythons can be set up in an enclosure as small as a 20 gallon (30" x 12" x 12"H) but adults will need to be housed in an enclosure that is 18" x 18" x 18"H or 24" x 18" x 24"H. The most important thing in the GTP's cage is that you provide a secure and steady perch for this is where most of your snake's time will be spent. The perch should be about as thick as the thickest part of your snake's body. Since like most snakes, Green Tree Pythons are escape artists, a secure screen top is absolutely critical to keep your snake from escaping the enclosure. The complete information about housing for Green tree python can be found in the other article.

FEEDING

Green Tree Pythons do well on a diet of mice or rats that have been fed a nutritious lab chow. Most Green Tree Pythons, especially non-gravid females and well-started juveniles, have hearty appetites. Getting these specimens to feed is not a problem. In fact, care must be exercised in approaching the animal with a food item after dark, as the feeding reflex can be can be quite strong, resulting in a strike at the slightest movement. In addition, tree pythons have heat-sensitive pits in their lips that can cause them to target your hand if it is warmer than the prey item. This is usually the case when feeding frozen and thawed rodents. All of this makes using a pair of long 18" tongs or forceps a necessity when feeding your animals. Using anything shorter while feeding adults will result in bites to your hand! Never expose a part of your hand or face to a Green Tree Pythons when opening the cage, especially at night.
Unlike most colubrid snakes, Green tree pythons should not be power fed to induce rapid growth. Keep meal sizes reasonable. A meal that makes a noticeable swelling, but not a huge lump, is about right. Baby Green Tree Pythons should eat every 5- 7 days, and every 7-10 days from 12 months and older. Large adults, especially females during non-breeding periods, may only need food every 12-14 days. Prowling for food, growth rates, and defecation cycles, can help determine frequency of feeding.
Always feed dead prey items to those animals that will accept them. This will be true of most Green Tree Pythons. A very useful trick that will often produce an enthusiastic response from an otherwise disinterested animal is to hold the head of the dead thawed rodent against a 100 watt light bulb for about 15-30 seconds and then immediately place it in tongs in front of the snake’s face. The heat pits located in the lips of the Green Tree Pythons will detect the heat and will often trigger a good response in slow feeders. The same is true for feeding neonates, except better results will be had by heating a mouse pinky or fuzzy in very hot tap water prior to offering it to the Green Tree Pythons. Almost all of the animals in my collection feed on frozen-thawed rodents. Green Tree Pythons get all the nutrition they need from being fed healthy lab rodents, and they do not need variety or supplemental food items such as chicks.

SHED AND DEFECATION CYCLES

Different Green Tree Pythons have different defecation rates, depending on growth, age, gender, and other factors. Older females frequently defecate less often than males, and young animals of both genders defecate more often than mature specimens. Some adults will "tail hang" prior to defecation. Although this often causes alarm among inexperienced keepers, it rarely is a problem.
There is a "rule" that has become somewhat popular, that says chondros should not be fed their next meal until they defecate from the last one. This policy will result in many specimens being under fed. However, if a particular animal has an obvious stool it needs to pass, wait until it does so before feeding the next meal. Environmental stimulation will often prompt regular defecation. Green Tree Pythons will usually defecate when shedding as well. The snake that sits day after day without any movement or environmental stimuli could grow bored, obese, and constipated. As veteran keeper and Green Tree Pythons pioneer Trooper Walsh says, "Change is good". Soaking and some gentle handling can help stimulate a bowel movement.
Shedding takes place often in growing juveniles, about once every 6-8 weeks. As the snake grows to adult size, sheds occur over a much longer time period, usually several months. Do not allow the humidity to drop too low during the shed cycle, which is a 10-14 day process that begins with a dulling of the colors and an opacity developing to the clear eye caps. In Green Tree Pythons, this milky appearance is much more subtle than in other snakes, and it takes some experience and a trained eye to discern the opaque period in some individuals. This is especially true with yellow neonates...these can be very difficult to when opaque. The python will almost always go off feed during this period, and may assume odd looking or unnatural postures, including coiling on the ground. Learning to adjust the humidity to a proper level to ensure good sheds is one of the skills needed for good husbandry. If the humidity is too low during the opaque period, the animal will have difficulty removing it’s old skin.
Do not attempt to handle, feed, or move Green Tree Pythons during a shed cycle. Needless to say, they should not be shipped or transported during this time either. Stress during the opaque period often results in poor sheds regardless of the environmental conditions.

References :
www.wikipedia.org
www.finegtps.com